In Search of the Wild Dulse: Recipes from Chef Evan Hennessey

April 02, 2015
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Dashi
Photo courtesy Stacy Spensley

Evan Hennessey of Stages One Washington in Dover, NH, shares his recipes for cured pollock and dashi using locally foraged and sourced ingredients. Read more about Chef Hennessey’s use of foraged sea vegetables in relation to other ingredients here.

Cured Pollock

8 feet sugar kelp
4 ounces dry sea lettuce flakes
1 1/2 cups salt
1/4 cup sugar
3 skinless pollock fillets, combined 3 1/4 pounds
2 cups soaked applewood chips

Rinse about 8 feet in length of sugar kelp. Cut into pieces that are about 8 inches in length.

Line a shallow metal container with some of the strips of kelp. Mix dry sea lettuce flakes with salt and cup sugar. Take 3 skinned pollock fillets and rub with the salt mixture. Lay the salted fish on the bed of sugar kelp then cover with the remaining strips of sugar kelp. Press down to make sure the kelp is as close to the fish as possible. Cover the container and refrigerate for 18-20 hours, no more than 24 hours. Remove the fish from the cure and rinse well under very cold water. Place the fish on a cake rack that is on a sheet pan. Refrigerate uncovered for 48 hours to dry the fish.

Under a hood vent or outdoors, set up a smoker using a 6” hotel pan, 2” hotel pan, and tin foil. Place 2 cups of soaked Applewood chips in the bottom of the 6” pan, place the 2” pan inside the larger one. Place the hotel pan across two burners or grill on high.

Allow the chips to start smoking. Lower the heat to medium. Place the fish on the rack, in the 2” pan and cover the entire contraption with foil. Slightly pull one of the corners back just a bit to create a vent.

Allow to smoke for 20 minutes then turn off the heat and allow to smoke for 10 more minutes. Still under the vent, remove the smoker from the heat, and remove the foil then remove the fish. Place fish, still on the rack, back on a sheet pan and back in the refrigerator, uncovered for 24 hours. After 24 hours, wrap the fish in plastic wrap. Reserve in the refrigerator until use.


Dashi

Seaweed Stock

1 pound fresh kelp

Mushroom Stock

2 pounds fresh mushrooms
4 ounces dried mushroom (black trumpets are recommended)
1 white onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, smashed
3 fresh bay leaves
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
2 teaspoons fennel seeds

Smoked Water

2 cups smoked applewood chips
10 cups ice cubes

Dashi

Seaweed Stock (see below)
Mushroom Stock (see below)
Smoked Water (see below)
3 ounces dried kelp or kombu
1 white onion, chopped
1/2 cup tamari
4 tablespoons red miso paste
2 fresh bay leaves
 

First you need to make three stocks; a seaweed stock, a mushroom stock and smoked water.

Seaweed: place 1 pound of fresh kelp in a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat and cover. Let stand for 30 minutes to steep. Afterwards, strain the seaweed out and cool the stock in an ice bath.

Mushroom: Place fresh mushrooms (your favorite), dried mushrooms ( I prefer black trumpets or porcini as their flavor is very rich and earthy), onion, garlic, bay leaves, fresh thyme, black peppercorns, and fennel seed in a stock pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil. Allow to simmer for 20 minutes, then remove from the heat and cover. Let stand of 30 minutes, then strain the stock and cool in an ice bath.

Smoked water: Under a hood vent or outdoors at a grill, set up a smoker using a 6” hotel pan, 2” hotel pan, and tin foil. Place 2 cups of soaked Applewood chips in the bottom of the 6” pan, place the 2” pan inside the larger one. Place the hotel pan across two burners or grill on high. Allow the chips to start smoking. Lower the heat to medium. Place a shallow bowl filled with 10 cups of ice cubes in the middle of the 2” pan and cover the entire contraption with foil. Slightly pull one of the corners back just a bit to create a vent. Allow to smoke for 20 minutes. Still under the vent, remove the smoker from the heat, and remove the foil then remove the ice bowl. Place the ice in a sauce pan and allow to melt. Strain through cheesecloth or a coffee filter, then cool in and ice bath. Reserve in the refrigerator until use,

Back to the dashi: combine the seaweed and mushroom stocks in a stock pot. Add 3 cups smoked water, dried kelp or kombu, onion, tamari, red miso paste, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, allow to cook for 10 minutes then lower the heat to low. Cook for 40 minutes. Remove from the heat and cover. Allow to steep for 15 minutes. Strain the dashi and cool stock in an ice bath. Reserve in the refrigerator until use.

The dish (optional):

In a bowl, arrange a few pieces of pickled mushroom and pickled sea lettuce in a circle of about a 4” diameter. Slice the cured Pollock very thinly and place 4 pieces around the circle. Shuck 2 oysters and place on opposite sides of the circle. Garnish with sea blight, thin shaved radish, and dehydrated oyster chips. Heat the dashi broth and pour about 3 ounces into the center of the circle at the table. Serve.

Article from Edible New Hampshire at http://ediblenewhampshire.ediblecommunities.com/recipes/search-wild-dulse-recipes-chef-evan-hennessey
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